Jewels Of Ilocos Norte Part II

It's getting dark and we have to find a place to stay in Pagudpud (Pa-good-pood), we haven't made reservations on any resorts, homestays or hotels, so we have to hurry before I get hungry!
The town of Pagudpud was once a barangay of Bangui town. It only became an independent municipality in 1959 when a group of political leaders petitioned to separate Pagudpud from Bangui was granted. My anxiousness was comforted as I saw the white arch with that bold green letters "PAGUDPUD" on it and I grinned with excitement! The road going to Pagudpud has a firm surface, you will pass by greenwoods  and vegetations on most front yards of the locals, which shows how diligent and resourceful Ilocanos are.  Rice farming and fishing are their main source of income. The place is  a favorite tourist destination during summer  for its vast and magnificent gold sand beaches. There are a number of beach resorts on the coast, Saud Beach Resort and Pannzian Beach Resort to name a few are the most popular. The municipality also encourages homestay for visitors who would want to learn the Ilocano lifestyle.

                                                                                  
Travelling for three days was exhausting, and because we don't have a place to stay, finding for it makes it more tiring. We did some house hopping in the town proper, there were many  houses to choose from but they didn't really suits our liking. Until we came across a pretty peach house while on our way to leave the town and read the small signage hanging on its garage saying "Josie's Homestay"! We stopped and looked for the owner and met "Manang Josie". She let us in her house and gave us a  fair rent for the two rooms we'll occupy. Manang Josie's house is very spacious and can accommodate a number of tourists. The round dining table is big enough for a family of twelve. The kitchen area is complete with utensils and the landscaped garden is  surrounded with colorful hibiscus. Picnic huts are available in case you want to dine  al fresco. Tents are also allowed in the commodious garden, just ask the owner and she'll be willing to lend and set it up for you.

Time is running and we still have many places to go so we have to step on the gas! Not far from Manang Josie's house is the beautiful place of Balaoi, where more treasures can be found! The enchanting Kaibigan Falls which is just a 30-minute trek from the main road is like a walk in the park. Mang Joe our tour guide told stories about the place, tales about how it got its name, the culture of the people and how they protect the environment. It is pretty obvious how patient they are in maintaining its grace.

Is there a sight more heartwarming being greeted by a pair of ducks dabbling on the stream?

And walk along the fertile trails of rice farms, with the clouds and the forests touching each other? The smell of fresh air and the vivid foliage which we passed by gives an impression that a natural wonder awaits!

The flow of water in the brook plays a melody while it surge from one rock to another and while being shaded by abundant greenery. I didn't notice the time spent on walking, when I suddenly heard a loud gush of water!

And that's it! The white flow of water looks so immaculate from where I was standing, I hurriedly went nearer to see how pure it is, I took a dip and the water was so cold! Kabigan derived from the word kaibigan (friend) has its own legend to tell. The falls is approximately 87 feet with a concave basin underneath to hold the water, and for the tourists to enjoy. It is sad that we have to leave this natural garden at once, I took several pictures of it for me to keep and cherish.

If your imagination is very creative, at a distance... you'll think that the Bantay Abot Cave is a great whale docked on the shore, isn't it? No? Well for me, it is! Sometimes it amuses me to visualize the physical world into something entertaining, my thought can give them more life and character. The Bantay Abot cave is actually a big rock with a hole in the middle, it was formed due to the powerful waves which smashes the hill, and it is situated in Balaoi, you'll pass by it on your way to Maira-Ira Point which is just a few meters away from Bantay Abot Cave.

After spending sometime in taking pictures in Bantay Abot Cave, we went to Maira-Ira Point popularly known as Blue Lagoon. I was very curious at first why it is called Blue Lagoon, the first thing which came to my mind was Brooke Shields who starred in the famous film with the same name, the only difference is that this place is prettier than her.

There are a number of beach resorts in the area which usually offers homestay, so tourists can enjoy their vacation. There are also cavanas along the beach which can be hired for a fair amount if you're only planning to stay the whole day. And since we'd like to relish the beauty of the place we chose to pitch a tent, play frisbee on the shore, frolic in the sea, watch the splashes of waves, whistle while the clouds pass by, and quench our thirst with ice cold beer.

How can I resist the clear water of Blue Lagoon with its fine white sands which didn't even hurt  my feet? The inviting waves which comes and go as if calling me to embrace the cold water?

Hitting the road again, after passing time in Blue Lagoon, we found ourselves in a concrete winding long bridge along the coast of Pasaleng Bay, the Patapat Viaduct. This bridge connects the Maharlika Highway from Laoag, Ilocos Norte to the Cagayan Valley Region.
This viaduct was constructed to solve the problem of landslides in the area which have caused so many vehicular accidents in the past. You know, you can do a lot of things in a road while it is not busy, you can do planking, you can take jump shot pictures as much as you can, sit in the middle of the road, scream, or just stand and enjoy the spectacular view of the seascape. Just make sure no vehicles are coming.

You wanna go here? Hurry don't be too late!

The Patapat viaduct is about 16+ kilometers from Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte.  From Pagudpud, simply head northeast towards Cagayan. The landscape changes if you continue along the northern road leading to Claveria, but we were not able to go on due to time constraints, we have to go back to Ilocos and go home. But my journey doesn't end here, there will be plenty of time soon.

The province of Ilocos Norte is rich in history as well as nature sites of great beauty, and I admire the Ilocanos for their dedication in preserving its treasures that until now they are still in its priceless glory.

Thank you for reading.

The Jewels Of Ilocos Norte...Agbiag!!

Our journey went farther to the north of Ilocos Region, where more of its treasures can be found. I was only about 5 years old when I first went to Ilocos Province. It  is my father's hometown, and he spent most of his childhood days in Batac,  according to some of my relatives, he and his siblings were President Marcos' (former Philippine President) playmates and I thought about how Batac looks like during those days.  I thought about how they ran in the streets, climbed trees and spent their time after school. I was very young when I went there, very young that I should have forgotten by now all the things that I've seen and experienced during my stay.  The"duhat" trees which lined along the streets on our way to Curimao beach, the raft on the beach, the calesa, the "dinuguan" we had for dinner in the garden, the artesian well, the "tuko" (gecko) which keeps on croaking in the middle of the night and the playmates I've met,  all these are sweet memories that still lingers in my mind.

Hmmm empanada and roasted peanuts with lotsa garlic!

And after several years,  I've finally returned to Ilocos and it looks different now. Buildings and commercial establishments are everywhere, some streets are wider and paved and some are narrow due to the volume of trucks, buses, jeepneys and tricycles running in the main streets. I rarely saw "calesas". But there is one thing that still hasn't changed in Batac, it's their flashy orange crispy fried "empanada" in the plaza which always goes with vinegar and garlic that makes everyone crave for it. Those grilled dried squids on sticks displayed on glass shelves, smells a bit fishy but still taste good is a sure winner!

Yummy!

So let's continue our journey to the quaint town of Paoay (Pawai), which we all  know is very popular for its monumental church. I only see this church in pictures and I was awed while standing right in front of it! The Church of Saint Agustine and its adjoining coral stone bell tower was constructed by the Augustinians in 1694. It is one of the most famous and magnificent building in the region which is listed in the World Heritage Site of UNESCO. The two sides of the facade are extended by curved buttresses giving it a graceful air.

Grand architecture!

Its astounding facade displays an immense decor with its massive flying buttresses which gives protection from strong earthquakes. The artistic creation emerges from a beautiful open space, unlike any many other churches located within the urban settings. How do you like that?

Our journey in Paoay wouldn't be complete if we miss the Malacanang of the North and Paoay Lake.  We passed by this beautiful two-story vacation house of the former Philippine President Marcos which is now turned to a museum displaying the Marcos memorabilia. It is also a popular venue for  wedding receptions and other special events. The museum is open from 9 am until 5 pm with an entrance fee of 20 pesos. 

It has a spacious terrace and a beautiful garden at the back  with a splendid view of the Paoay Lake. Legend tells that Paoay Lake was once a beautiful dry land. The site of a prosperous barangay called San Juan de Sahagun (Saint John of Sahagun). The materialism of its people has angered God so He sent an earthquake that sank the town. The lake remains to be mystical according to the locals, jewels and gold ornaments on the mouth of fresh caught fish are said to be found by fishermen  as proof that the villagers then lived a lavish lifestyle.

I thought I was in Sahara desert when we drove along the wide scope of dry landscape. I walked and ran onto hills of sands and it hurts my feet due to the scorching heat of the sun. The 85 kilometer Paoay sand dunes seemed to be the favorite setting of most Philippine films like "Panday", "Himala" and some other films. What intrigues me most is that how did dunes existed in a tropical country? Could it be under sea water millions of years ago? Or could it be the effect of strong earthquakes which made the ocean move back leaving all these sands? Oh well...what I know is that the place is starting to attract tourists and is now a haven for thrill seekers who would want to try some sand adventures!

walang himala!

Heading north again, we passed by an old lighthouse in Burgos, Ilocos Norte. Burgos was named after the martyred priest Jose Burgos who was executed in Manila, it is 50 kilometers north of Laoag. The red brick lighthouse, Cape Bojeador, was constructed in 1892 by the Spaniards. I must admit that I got scared with the ghostly atmosphere as I walked on its creaking wooden aisles along old wooden thick doors, with a height three times as mine. In spite of the ravages and natural elements which damaged it severely, the building still shows  the elegance it had during the old days. Today the Burgos Lighthouse still stands on a hill and continue to attract tourists and serves as beacon to all passing vessels along the Philippine sea.

Creepy.

Ilocos Norte is really trying to impress me more, I have been to a historical church, a legendary lake, sand dunes, an old lighthouse and this time... windmills? I screamed as the car passed by the main road when I saw the rows of gigantic fans from afar which still looks huge even at a distance! Honestly, the windmills excites me the most as we passed by the coastal town of Bangui. It is odd to see windmills in a small and simple coastal town. The locals must have something to be proud of and I'm telling you it gave me a different feeling as I went nearer and touched its base, see them twirl and makes a loud squeaking sound!

The windmills, officially referred to as the NorthWind Bangui Bay Project, were a project by the NorthWind Development Corporation as a practice renewable energy sources and to help reduce the greenhouse gases that cause global warming. The project is the first “Wind Farm” in the Philippines consisting of wind turbines on-shore facing the South China Sea and considered to be the biggest in Southeast Asia. The project sells electricity to the Ilocos Norte Electric Cooperative (INEC) and provides 40% of the power requirements of Ilocos Norte via Transco Laoag.

How to get here?
From Laoag, take the Laoag-Cagayan route towards Burgos. After reaching Burgos, watch out for the directional marker on the left side of the road that leads to the Bangui Bay. Follow the dirt road leading to the bay. Some wind mills will already be visible from this point then make a right turn to the bay. Travel time from Laoag will approximately be an hour and a half.

"One's destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things."-Henry Miller

Thank you for reading!

NOTE: Some informations in this blog were taken from the book. "Places With A Heart Philippines".