The Jewels Of Ilocos Norte...Agbiag!!

Our journey went farther to the north of Ilocos Region, where more of its treasures can be found. I was only about 5 years old when I first went to Ilocos Province. It  is my father's hometown, and he spent most of his childhood days in Batac,  according to some of my relatives, he and his siblings were President Marcos' (former Philippine President) playmates and I thought about how Batac looks like during those days.  I thought about how they ran in the streets, climbed trees and spent their time after school. I was very young when I went there, very young that I should have forgotten by now all the things that I've seen and experienced during my stay.  The"duhat" trees which lined along the streets on our way to Curimao beach, the raft on the beach, the calesa, the "dinuguan" we had for dinner in the garden, the artesian well, the "tuko" (gecko) which keeps on croaking in the middle of the night and the playmates I've met,  all these are sweet memories that still lingers in my mind.

Hmmm empanada and roasted peanuts with lotsa garlic!

And after several years,  I've finally returned to Ilocos and it looks different now. Buildings and commercial establishments are everywhere, some streets are wider and paved and some are narrow due to the volume of trucks, buses, jeepneys and tricycles running in the main streets. I rarely saw "calesas". But there is one thing that still hasn't changed in Batac, it's their flashy orange crispy fried "empanada" in the plaza which always goes with vinegar and garlic that makes everyone crave for it. Those grilled dried squids on sticks displayed on glass shelves, smells a bit fishy but still taste good is a sure winner!

Yummy!

So let's continue our journey to the quaint town of Paoay (Pawai), which we all  know is very popular for its monumental church. I only see this church in pictures and I was awed while standing right in front of it! The Church of Saint Agustine and its adjoining coral stone bell tower was constructed by the Augustinians in 1694. It is one of the most famous and magnificent building in the region which is listed in the World Heritage Site of UNESCO. The two sides of the facade are extended by curved buttresses giving it a graceful air.

Grand architecture!

Its astounding facade displays an immense decor with its massive flying buttresses which gives protection from strong earthquakes. The artistic creation emerges from a beautiful open space, unlike any many other churches located within the urban settings. How do you like that?

Our journey in Paoay wouldn't be complete if we miss the Malacanang of the North and Paoay Lake.  We passed by this beautiful two-story vacation house of the former Philippine President Marcos which is now turned to a museum displaying the Marcos memorabilia. It is also a popular venue for  wedding receptions and other special events. The museum is open from 9 am until 5 pm with an entrance fee of 20 pesos. 

It has a spacious terrace and a beautiful garden at the back  with a splendid view of the Paoay Lake. Legend tells that Paoay Lake was once a beautiful dry land. The site of a prosperous barangay called San Juan de Sahagun (Saint John of Sahagun). The materialism of its people has angered God so He sent an earthquake that sank the town. The lake remains to be mystical according to the locals, jewels and gold ornaments on the mouth of fresh caught fish are said to be found by fishermen  as proof that the villagers then lived a lavish lifestyle.

I thought I was in Sahara desert when we drove along the wide scope of dry landscape. I walked and ran onto hills of sands and it hurts my feet due to the scorching heat of the sun. The 85 kilometer Paoay sand dunes seemed to be the favorite setting of most Philippine films like "Panday", "Himala" and some other films. What intrigues me most is that how did dunes existed in a tropical country? Could it be under sea water millions of years ago? Or could it be the effect of strong earthquakes which made the ocean move back leaving all these sands? Oh well...what I know is that the place is starting to attract tourists and is now a haven for thrill seekers who would want to try some sand adventures!

walang himala!

Heading north again, we passed by an old lighthouse in Burgos, Ilocos Norte. Burgos was named after the martyred priest Jose Burgos who was executed in Manila, it is 50 kilometers north of Laoag. The red brick lighthouse, Cape Bojeador, was constructed in 1892 by the Spaniards. I must admit that I got scared with the ghostly atmosphere as I walked on its creaking wooden aisles along old wooden thick doors, with a height three times as mine. In spite of the ravages and natural elements which damaged it severely, the building still shows  the elegance it had during the old days. Today the Burgos Lighthouse still stands on a hill and continue to attract tourists and serves as beacon to all passing vessels along the Philippine sea.

Creepy.

Ilocos Norte is really trying to impress me more, I have been to a historical church, a legendary lake, sand dunes, an old lighthouse and this time... windmills? I screamed as the car passed by the main road when I saw the rows of gigantic fans from afar which still looks huge even at a distance! Honestly, the windmills excites me the most as we passed by the coastal town of Bangui. It is odd to see windmills in a small and simple coastal town. The locals must have something to be proud of and I'm telling you it gave me a different feeling as I went nearer and touched its base, see them twirl and makes a loud squeaking sound!

The windmills, officially referred to as the NorthWind Bangui Bay Project, were a project by the NorthWind Development Corporation as a practice renewable energy sources and to help reduce the greenhouse gases that cause global warming. The project is the first “Wind Farm” in the Philippines consisting of wind turbines on-shore facing the South China Sea and considered to be the biggest in Southeast Asia. The project sells electricity to the Ilocos Norte Electric Cooperative (INEC) and provides 40% of the power requirements of Ilocos Norte via Transco Laoag.

How to get here?
From Laoag, take the Laoag-Cagayan route towards Burgos. After reaching Burgos, watch out for the directional marker on the left side of the road that leads to the Bangui Bay. Follow the dirt road leading to the bay. Some wind mills will already be visible from this point then make a right turn to the bay. Travel time from Laoag will approximately be an hour and a half.

"One's destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things."-Henry Miller

Thank you for reading!

NOTE: Some informations in this blog were taken from the book. "Places With A Heart Philippines".

The Charm Of Sta. Maria, Ilocos Sur

I will not forgive myself if I fail to mention my story in Sta. Maria, Ilocos Sur. I should have included this in my previous blog about Vigan but I chose to compose a special one for it. Sta. Maria is in the western coast of Luzon in the Ilocos Region. A town ahead of Vigan City and omitted at times by tourists which is very regretful because the town keeps one of the four Baroque Churches in the Philippines,  listed on UNESCO's World Heritage Site!

It will take 5 hours to get there by land from Manila and that is... if you're not going to make several stops along the way...like we did. But we have to make a quick stop at La Union to go to the restroom, eat breakfast,  and watch the sunrise for dessert,  then hit the road again, how quick was that?

Happy fiesta!

My first visit to Ilocos Sur was 5 years ago, when we had a tour in Vigan City. I have no idea why we chose to rest and stay for the night in Sta. Maria on my second visit, while it is only an hour away from Vigan. I had an impression that there is something in Sta. Maria that we need to find out! The next morning, while we were on our way to Vigan City, the resort staff told us to pass by their town's beautiful church on a hill. Since it's our practice to visit churches on places we visit for the first time, we followed the way going to the church. And guess what? A grand architecture of heavy stones, bricks and mortars stands firm on a hill overlooking the central town plaza and the vast plains and hills of Ilocos. The Nuestra Senora dela Asuncion Church was built in 1765 during the Spanish regime. Unlike its sister churches in Ilocos Region, the Santa Maria church was less in proportion and expresses tightness in space but has an elaborated architectural design.  

The thick buttresses of the church attached to its walls gave more force to the structure against strong earthquakes which often hits the town.

A detached pagoda-like bell tower was later constructed in 1810,a distance away from the church to protect the main church from possible earthquake damage. The octagonal bell tower was furnished in 1811 and was remodeled in 1863, its foundation must have gradually settled down making the structure appears slightly leaned or tilted.

And according to legend, Santa Maria Church was not built on its present site and that the statue of the Virgin Mary was enshrined in a distant place. It often happens that the statue of the Virgin Mary disappears from her place of enthronement only to be found perched on a guava tree that grew on a hill and where the present church is located. This story is believed by the locals which had led them to erect the church on its present site.

Partly blocking the frontal view of the facade of Santa Maria Church is the convent. It is accessible from the Church by a structural bridge built over which might have been a deep channel or ditch. In the early days of the colonization, the convent was the seat of the ecclesiastical administration besides serving as a “ home or retreat house of the silvery haired or aged ministers of God upon their retirement.

I roamed around the area and found a long trail not far from the church with tall old trees and weeds that almost covered the path, the cave-like opening at the end of it made me more curious to know what is there really!

Pink little flowers dangles on trees, parts of the concrete pathway are damaged, old trees with slender branches droops and at the end of the path where an old dilapidated arch covered with weeds made us stop and wonder what this structure is for?

We found out that it was an old cemetery with an octagonal brick fence which I thought was destructed by a major earthquake many years ago. And there I saw a facade of an ancient structure with an image of a human face made from bricks on the upper part of the main entrance or was it only my imagination? It looks so creepy from where I was standing as I look at the dark mouth of the building.

However, we still insisted to proceed and know what was it! And it looks like this structure is a  remnant of  an old burial chapel during the Spanish era, and maybe constructed on the same time the church was built. It could have been damaged by a strong earthquake or destructed during World War II, there were several tombs of Spanish priests and perhaps prominent residents in town. We couldn't find someone to talk to and ask about the history of the place but by just looking at it...it already tells the story.

It was already late in the afternoon when we finished going around, the view of the glorious sunset on top of the hill filled the place with its golden rays. I never thought that the humble town of Sta. Maria in Ilocos Sur has something to be proud of, an edifice which will be admired and uplift the spiritual being of those who will come and visit it. 

Thank you for reading.

Wish Vigan Will Not Be Gone

I always imagine Vigan as a place where I can travel back in time, walking in the middle of moonlit cobbled pavements. Wearing a pink "terno"(a type of Philippine traditional dress) and holding an "abanico"(a handheld fan) on a cozy and starry night while sitting on an old but comfortable bench. The sound of clip-clops of horse drawn carriages going around the plaza echoes on a peaceful night and the quaint bell tower stood silently as if watching all the people roaming around the place. Sighs.

Old but elegant.

Going to Vigan City is just 8 hours away from Manila by land. I know that 8 hours of driving is not just, but I swear you will not get bored with the panoramic view of landscapes, seascapes and places with old structures that you will pass by. The Quirino Bridge is one of the most beautiful bridge in the country and famous for its excellent engineering. The bridge was named after the late President Elpidio Quirino and connects the town of Santa and Bantay, Ilocos Sur and serves as the gateway to Vigan City and all the other historical places in the Ilocos Region.

The town ahead of Vigan is Bantay, it is famous for its bell tower which stands on a hill, the structure was built by the Augustinian Missionaries in 1591. The bell tower is situated in the highest spot in town as watch tower during the Spanish regime which corresponds with the name of the town "Bantay" meaning "guard" in English.

People will probably feel nostalgic the same way like I did upon reaching Vigan City. Vigan by the way is approximately 400 kilometers from Manila, and is located in Ilocos Sur, Philippines. It is the only town in the Philippines with so many preserved historic sites and in this manner Vigan was listed in UNESCO's World Heritage Site. Legend tells that Vigan was saved from destruction by the Japanese forces due to a romantic link between a Japanese officer and a charming lady from the region, and with this...I wish to express my gratitude to that beautiful lady for the heritage that has been preserved and that we as Filipinos have been very proud of. 

Old ancestral houses built under the Spanish era still stands in every streets of Vigan. They were made from bricks, woods and concrete and most of them were owned by the most prominent residents in the city, who still maintains and preserves their legacy. Some of the houses were only restored back to its original condition, due to fire which broke out during World War II that burned several houses. 

My kind of vacation house.

"Calesas" or horse drawn carriages are still being used as a means of transport in Vigan. It was introduced by the Spaniards to the Philippines in the 18th century which only the nobles and high ranked officials could only afford. The calesa driver called as "cochero" directs the horse to turn right or left. Calesas are usually seen in the streets, which are elaborately adorned with colorful curtains and flowers, giving tourists a joy ride around the city for a small fee. 

The city proper.

Souvenirs shops can be found along the streets, plazas and public market. But the shops on the old alleys were the most frequented by the tourists because of its accessibility and cozy atmosphere. They sell tees with different prints, native hats, bags and other locally made products. Vigan is also famous for its burnay industry. The "burnay" are earthenware jars crafted by a potter’s hands with the aid of a potter’s wheel. It uses fine sand (anay) as a tempering material and fired at a high temperature in a huge brick-and-clay ground kiln that makes it harder and more durable than other terracotta. The local bagoong (salted anchovy), sugarcane vinegar and basi wine would not taste as good if not fermented in stoneware burnay jar for your information.

I have been to Vigan twice and do you know why I keep on returning? It's their specialty dish, Vigan ukoy and empanada! You can find these delicious snacks everywhere in Vigan.  The empanada is similar to taco that is fried to crisp. Rice flour is used for the making the crust or shell and the filling is made up of grated green papaya, mung bean sprouts, egg and the delicious Vigan longganisa (native sausage).  Your craving for empanada and ukoy wouldn't be complete without sukang  Iloko (local special vinegar) with onions, garlic and chili. Yum!

Delicious! I swear!

Time for ukoy...yum again!

On the other hand "ukoy" is another appetizing treat after going around Vigan, and it goes well with empanada. Vigan ukoy is crispy shrimp fritter made up of small shrimps and glutinous rice batter and served in Ilocos cane vinegar with garlic, onion and hot chili. As I am writing this blog my stomach began to grumble, it craves for empanada and ukoy and I must go the kitchen and get something to eat. Well that's all for our Vigan tour, I hope you enjoyed reading and I thank you for your time in following my blogs.

NOTE: Some parts of the blog were taken from the book "Places With A Heart Philippines". And the Vigan City Official Website.

The Coffins and Caves Of Sagada

 

It was a beautiful Sunday in Sagada, we started our day with a hearty breakfast of purple rice, Spanish sardines and corned beef. The purple rice has a different flavor from other organic rice that I've tried, it has a buttery taste, so creamy and easy to digest. After breakfast, off we went to the tourist registration center at the municipal hall, and started our tour in one of the popular destination in Sagada... the Sumaguing Cave. Tourists don't miss going to this cave for its magnificent rock formations which comes in different shapes and sizes.

 But walking down the cave was a struggle, it was very dark in the first half of our spelunking and only the pale glow of petrol lamp was the only source of light. The rocks are sharp and slippery, so we have to be careful not to slip down, and the only thing we can hold onto was another rock which were filled with bat poo! So if you're unlucky enough to hold onto something slimy and smelly...that's it! We continued to walk deeper into the cave and finally we've reached the part where the tour guide asked us to remove our footwear and I wondered why. Suddenly, I was stunned by the orange colored rocks before me! We walked onto these huge rocks barefooted and it wasn't slippery, the texture was rough but not rough enough to hurt my feet! The crystal clear water looks so pure and I hesitated to dabble my feet for I might pollute it! Time came when it's time for us to go out of the cave and the adventure throughout was fun...except for the bat poos.

Not far from the Sumaguing cave is the Lumiang burial cave. The trail going to the cave was a lot better than that of the Sumaguing's, the only difference I think, was we'll be seeing coffins which has been buried for 500 years instead of the usual stalactites. The natives of Sagada has a unique tradition of burying the dead, it is common that old folks initiates in making their own coffins which sounds horrid. I noticed that the coffins were small and wondered how a departed person can fit there. It was said that the corpse was forced to a fetal position to fit in the coffin for it is only proper to return them to the Creator the same way they were in their nativity, and so it makes sense. There were about 200 coffins all stacked next to and on top of each other. Coffins with reptile carvings on it belongs to Sagada's highly respected leaders. There was an eerie stillness and feeling in the cave and thoughts of old souls wandering around watching their remains and us came to my mind. So I gave a signal to my companions to move out of the cave and go to our next destination.

Going to Echo Valley to see the Hanging coffins was on the list of places to be visited and hiring a guide is optional, so we opted to go on our own. We only asked the locals on how to get there and we easily found the trail along Mission Compound, where white gravestones were laid in an orderly manner on top of the hill. Charred woods and ashes still remains on some graves, instead of stiff candle waxes we usually see in cemeteries. I've learned that the locals also commemorates the dead on the first day of November, and set a small bonfire before the grave instead of those tall candles we usually bring in cemeteries. How solemn it is to find the place illuminated with bonfires as orange flames and smoke arises and incorporates with the fog and the evergreen forest around. The smell of burnt woods and pines must have been a sweet eulogy to their dear departed ones.

We continued our journey to Echo Valley, trekking along the cliff side wasn't painful, we need to be cautious at times where loose coarse soil can cause someone to slide down...the cliff. But there are trees that you can easily grasp... just in case.

We reached the Echo Valley in just a few minutes and the joy of screaming at the top of our lungs while listening to our echoes was such an entertaining moment! The picture of us on the left (please click it) was taken by my companion while he was trekking down to the cliff of the hanging coffins and while we were enjoying the cold breeze and listening to the echoes of our laughter!

The famous Hanging coffins where Sagada has become known, rest on a cliff just beneath the Echo Valley. I can imagine how the natives of Sagada struggled to put these coffins on cliffs. They believe that burying the dead on higher places can get them closer to heaven, the privilege of being hanged on cliffs after death were only for the most qualified and respected villager. The 2000 year old burial tradition is slowly being unobserved by the locals although the last coffin hanged was in the year 2008 who could have been the last descendant of a highly respected person in town.

Oh well...I got tired I need some refreshments, and passing by a yogurt house would be delighting. The store is one of the popular eating place in Sagada, it is a cozy place to dine and exchange pleasantries with my companions. The atmosphere is well adorned by old pictures of Sagada's first inhabitants, colorful woven materials embellishes the ceiling and bamboo decorations hanging on each corner.

We tried their most popular dish, the all organic strawberry banana with granola yogurt at its finest! They also serve other dishes like pasta, rice meals, chicken meals and salads, but hey I could also eat that in the city. I'm in a yogurt house, so am I not suppose to eat yoghurt? Our two-day adventure in Sagada was too short to visit other interesting places.The sunrise, the waterfalls, lakes and lush forests are just the few things on my list, Sagada will always be there and will surely wait for my return.

A Wonderland Called Sagada

We left Banaue half past noon, and took an ordinary bus going to Bontoc. The non airconditioned mini-bus was loaded with commuters in and on top of the bus and before I could get in, I have to wrestle with the others and squeeze my body in just to get a seat! The bus floor was carpeted with sacks of rice, onions, garlic and vegetables.Watermelons were scattered and keeps on rolling back and forth underneath my seat. I commend the bus driver for his mastery in driving along curved, rocky and dusty roads and also the passengers who can sleep soundly amidst the dusty road with their mouths open swallowing all the particles of dust along the way. But I'm not complaining.

Travel time from Banaue to Bontoc was about 2 hours, we took another jeepney going to Sagada and after 30 minutes...we're in Sagada! Ahh...Sagada...Sagada...Sagada. Where in the world is Sagada? Such a cozy little village in the Mountain Province, dominated by towering pine trees, making the place lush. Flowers of different colors and kinds adds beauty thus making the places so attractive! Weather is pleasant, people warm and hospitable.

Sagada is located in the Mountain Province, in Luzon. Its elevation makes the weather favorable all year long knowing that Philippines is a tropical country. The coldest temperature are from the months of November to February.  Tourists flocks in during summer to get away from the hot weather in the metropolis thus it has become the favorite summer haven. Cultures and traditions are still being practiced in the village.

Indigenous culture and practices was passed on from the founder, by a man named  "Biag" pronounced "bee-yag", who was a native of Abra. History tells that Biag originated from Abra, a province in the Philippines in the Cordilleras. The villagers including Biag's family, were forced out of their "ili" or village by the raiding headhunters during those times driving Biag to move to Sagada. Later, Biag chose to settle for good in Sagada even though his family went to their normal lives in their hometown. The main occupation of the people is agriculture. Nearly all households have a small piece of land from which they raise rice, corn, vegetables and fruits. Swine-raising in a small scale is engaged in by practically all households as additional source of income and as a source of meat supply vital to the performance of rituals.

The indigenous people of Sagada are generally called Igorots and they speak Kankana-ey  , they can also speak well in English due to the influence of the American Missionaries who came in the early 1900's after the Spanish regime. So tourists from other country don't have much problem when communicating with them. The Episcopal Church of Saint Mary is the mother church of Sagada, the only town in the Philippines which is largely Protestant when it comes to the numbers of baptized in the church. The most popular landmark in Sagada is the St. Mary Church which was founded by the American missionaries in 1904.  An impression of dedication from towns folks and abundance came to light as I saw the church. Its thick old stone walls is a symbol of the people's faith to God as gratitude for their blessed land.

Beside the church is the Centennial Sawmill, another famous landmark in Sagada a centennial marker for 100 years of mission and ministry of the Episcopal Church in the Philippines. The wheel was previously part of a sawmill brought by the United States to Sagada. When the mill stopped operating, the wheel was discarded and left lying on the ground for almost a century. I can't imagine how the Americans brought all the materials for construction with not much advanced technology and then brought it up 5000 feet above sea level, it must have been one solid team work!

One day is not enough to roam around Sagada, there are plenty of beautiful places to go to, more activities awaiting. And I'm going to tell about it on my next blog. Thank you for reading.

How to get there?
1. Take a bus from Manila going to Banaue. Florida Bus Liners leaves everyday on single trips.
2. From Banaue take another bus or jeepney goig to Bontoc. Jeepney terminal is located near Banaue Public Market.
3. And from Bontoc, there are several jeepneys available going to Sagada. Enjoy! 

Ifugao's Modest Accommodation

Ifugao's home sweet home.

Since I have been sharing my experiences in Batad, I will take this opportunity to tell you how I felt during my short stay in an Ifugao hut. The Ifugao hut is the primordial dwelling place of the Ifugao people, the pyramidal hut was built with simplicity and its architecture was uniquely made with no nails and bolts used. It can also withstand strong earthquakes, typhoons and torrential rains. The thatched huts with walls made from bamboo and woods can accommodate a big family. There were 5 of us and there's still room for more.  Ramon, the owner of the hut is always willing to accommodate guests in order to let tourists experience and know the ingenuity of Ifugao. 

The bent wood on the door if you will notice serves as a holding device when climbing the ladder, which I think is very useful for tourists whose having a hard time climbing the ladder like me. There are some tools for farming and a "salakot"(native hat) and raincoat made from indigenous materials hanged on its ceiling. The cogon grass ceiling which were laid tightly to each other, can surely provide natural ventilation during hot climate while maintaining warmth during cold and rainy seasons.


                                                            

On the exterior side of the hut were skulls of animals which were butchered during feasts and rituals. There were several of them displayed as adornments and to show the family's social status. I felt awkward when thoughts came that I will be sleeping in a hut with all those skulls around it, but if it shows wealth, then it's a privilege to belong to a wealthy Ifugao clan just for a night! And why not?

I roamed around beneath the hut and saw old things which I thought used for cooking. As I see it, the lower level of the house serves as the receiving area for visitors, a recreational area and a place for household works. The "daulon" is how they call  it,  is a cool place to have a hot cup of coffee, with family or friends and tell stories about nature and folklore, like what we did. Dusted native poultry cages stands near some old earthenware jars and cooking utensils, which was done with artistry, simplicity and originality are some of the things found, and are still of great value. 

Its ladder is detachable so it can be pulled up inside the house for the safety of the occupants.  Honestly, I had a hard time climbing the ladder because it hurts my feet and that I only went up to the hut if needed. I just threw my bags and other things to make it easier for me and  just to avoid the ladder.

The main room was spacious and there was an attic where it could accommodate more occupants. I can't believe that it also has a small fireplace in a corner where they can cook and at the same time can provide warmth in the room.  Ashes were scattered that it brought my imagination back to the early times when the former dwellers of this hut were already contented with what they had. The candle standing on a thick slab of wood provided a soft light making the room cozy.

It was really dark in there, even during daytime, the small hole which serves as ventilation aside from the door gives a favorable temperature to the occupants. I peeked through the hole and I saw an expanse of greenery which gave life to the darkness of the room. 

When nature calls, the toilet and bathroom are just beside the hut and the cliff. It was a funny and odd experience for me to take a bath in a bathroom where my upper body was exposed to nature. Well, the good thing was the tin walls are tall enough to cover my lower torso, there is no heater so I have to face the ice bucket challenge, the water was so freezing and I was shouting and shivering that time but I was refreshed after a day of walking. The best way to take a bath is to wait for the sundown and crouch but I am telling you, the water was still cold.

The traditional Ifugao hut has undergone a lot of rituals, traditions and beliefs before they were constructed. It has a soul, knowing that all parts of it were taken from God's creation. The roofs, the walls, the beams, fireplace and ladder, all of them were made from the hands of the people's creativeness, feelings, thoughts, values, fears and aspirations in which our ancestors has lived harmoniously and comfortably no matter how peculiar they are to others.

Thank you for reading!