Immersion In Northern Samar ( Dalupiri Island/Pink Beach )

I hope this would not be the last time that I would write about Northern Samar. There are still so many places to visit over there, white sand beaches, caves to explore, historical structures and if only I could extend my stay there I would do so, but I can't. We stayed in the province for 5 days and we made the most of it. On our fourth day, we prepared for our wandering in the Island of San Vicente. It's a 2 hour boat ride along San Bernardino Strait from Dalupiri Island, and it is best to travel early in the morning when the water current is not yet strong. This body of water for me is very moody, and I've been staring at its movement all the while.The municipality of San Vicente is a group of islands where tourism has a great potential due to its unspoiled white sand beaches and the unique pink beach! There are seven islands that makes up San Vicente, they are the Destacado, Medio, Maragat, Panganoron, Sila and Tarnate. Destacado is the biggest and the mother island and where the town proper is located. Sila Island is the most popular of them all because of its pink sand beach. They call it, "Pink Beach" because that's how it is!

Pink Beach

Please do not expect it to be in hot pink or fuschia pink, like what we did because you'll only get disappointed. The effect of pink sand was because of the red corals that were washed ashore and transformed into sand and mixed with the white sands...so it's pinkish. I believe that it would really turn pink before the sun rises or during sunset, and I guess that would be something extraordinary! Never seen a pink beach in my entire life so we were so curious about it! And we went for it!

You know you'll already in the Pink Beach when you see this signage. It is located in Sila, just an island hop from the main island. There are no public lodging houses in this resort, so if you're planning to go to this beach, you have to bring your own tent and food. But day tour is possible if you're coming from Allen or Dalupiri Island. It is only expensive, because passenger boats going to San Vicente Island are very seldom. There are also trips coming from Bulan, Sorsogon to San Vicente once a week, but I'm not sure about it. If you're coming from Dalupiri Island, the passenger boats from the port offers day tours in Pink Beach and Capul Island for 5 thousand pesos, it is good if you are with a group. There are also passenger boats from Allen port which offers tours in Pink Beach for 5 thousand pesos also.

Corals 

The pink beach in Sila doesn't only boasts about its unusual color, but it also has a spectacular underwater scenery. The presence of corals creates a colorful image just like in aquariums. The nearby islands has also this natural underwater views so do not forget to bring snorkels to make the adventure more fun!

Crow

Sila Island is also a sanctuary to birds which I had a hard time capturing because they are aloof, it must be an interesting place to bird photographers or if you're not, just simply watch them fly and hover from one tree to another. It was too bad that we didn't had the time visit the other islands due to the water condition, the waves are getting rough that's why we have to pack things and go back to Dalupiri Island but I really had a nice time, at least I know that aside from white, gray, black, brown and off-white sand beaches, a pink beach exists and it's here in my Motherland! And you have to see if for yourself! Now, going back to Dalupiri Island.

Dalupiri Island Port

Dalupiri Island is in the Municipality of San Antonio, Northern Samar. It is bounded by San Bernardino Strait in the north and west of Capul Island. Its pride are the white sand coasts and the pristine water around the island. Coconut trees are prominent as well as with lush vegetations. Dalupiri Island was not really in our itinerary, but the waves took us there, never knowing what was awaiting for us. Dalupiri has been our home after a day of  island hopping. Some of the memorable moments I had, were going to the town proper to buy fresh caught fish which were sold along the streets. Bought fresh baked bread, the smell of it was so irresistible that I can't wait to get to the resort so I just sat and ate it on the sidewalk.

Sunset at Dalupiri Island

Chasing sunset on our last day, was one of the most memorable, you know that when you just thought about it suddenly? And went out and just hailed a motorcyle to get you to the other side of the island? It was a great haste and felt joyful as we caught the sun just a minute before it sets! It was truly rewarding!



On our last day, I took a shot of the sunrise before we leave. Dalupiri Island has been our base camp for 2 days and it was a wonderful experience to be in that place and to talk to the locals even if it was just for a while. Until now I can't get over our last wandering in Northern Samar, a truly remarkable place. I have learned a lot of values from the locals that I've met in this trip, they're just simple people yet very generous, and I want to be there again.

HOW TO GET THERE?

Dalupiri Island.
1. If you're coming from Tacloban City, take a bus going to Allen, you can either get off at Victoria (town before Allen), and take a passenger boat at the port for a fare of 30 pesos, it's a 15-minute boat ride.
2. If you're in Allen, go to the port (Allen port) and take a passenger boat for a fare of 50 pesos, it's a 30-minute travel.
3. If you're coming from Matnog, Sorsogon take RORO ferry going to Allen which is the only port you'll end up and take a boat going to Dalupiri in the same port in Allen.

San Vicente Island (Pink Beach)
1. There are passenger boats in Allen, Northern Samar offering tours in San Vicente Island particularly in Pink Beach for 5,000 pesos. It is expensive because there are no passenger boats going to San Vicente except in Bulan, Sorsogon which takes passengers once a week.

2. There are also boat operators in Dalupiri Island which offers day tours in Capul Island and Pink Beach for 5,000 pesos(negotiable).

WHERE TO STAY?
1. There are a number of resorts in Dalupiri Island.

We stayed at Seashore Spring Beach Resort at mobile no. 09177007426 and 09399101536.
Haven of Fun Beach Resort at mobile no. 09177906594 or 09173276594.
Puro Beach Resort at mobile no. 09177900243 or 09152551535

2. Pink Beach Resort. Please contact the number on the signage at mobile no. 09983445508.

Just a few reminders. I suggest that you take the tour when the weather is favorable, the water current gets too strong in a moment that might cause untoward incidents. Well the boat operators knows best when to sail or not, so take their advise. These places are untainted so please do not leave garbages in the area, just take them with you and dispose them properly. Respect the locals.

Immersion in Northern Samar (Capul Island)

The original plan was to go to Biliran Island on our third day, but it didn't happen. The travel from Allen, Samar to Biliran Province is approximately 8 hours and it would consume a lot of time. The night before the third day we had a light conversation with the caretaker (Eddie) of the resort (Villa Veronica) we're staying. He told us stories about the people and places in Northern Samar and mentioned Capul Island. While he was conversing with us I saw the lighthouse in Capul which can be seen from the resort, flickering in the darkness as if inviting me to come and visit it. Eddie's stories was impressive which made us changed our plans and instead go into the heart of Northern Samar and check it out.

San Antonio Island

Early in the morning we packed our things and headed to the town of Victoria, just 30-minute tricycle (three-wheeled passenger vehicle) ride from Allen and stopped at Victoria port to get a boat going to San Antonio Island (aka Dalupiri Island). We negotiated a boat ride with the operator to take us to Capul Island and back to San Antonio Island which will be our base camp for 2 days. We looked for a place to stay in San Antonio Island, ate brunch and at 10:30 am off we went to Capul Island which will take 30 minutes if the water current is calm and 1 hour if the current is not so good. We negotiated and haggled with the boat operator for the Capul Island tour and we had a deal at 2,300 pesos. 

Capul Island

The sea was calm while sailing but as we approach the island whirlpools suddenly came up not just one but several and a big swordfish leaped in the air as if a gesture that we are willingly permitted to come to the island. The boat docked and the locals came to us, all smiling then a man talked to us and asked if we are on tour, he lead us to his "habal-habal" (motorcycle). And wow the "habal-habal" can carry four passengers plus the driver and there's five of us in a single motorcycle! Well anyway, he took us to an old church (Roman Catholic), which is the one of the main attraction in the island.

St. Ignatius of Loyola Parish Church

The church of Capul was built during the Spanish era in honor of St. Ignatius de Loyola in 1781, the first church built on the same site on 1596 was made from hard wood and nipa roofs but was demolished by Moro pirates in 1615. And in 1781, Fr. Mariano Valero, restored the church and built a stone fortress to increase defense against Moro attacks. The architecture is a classic representation of  a church fortress during the Spanish period.

Another place of interest in the island is the Spanish lighthouse, Punta Capul, situated in the northwestern corner of Samar facing San Bernardino Strait. The lighthouse is a historical landmark built under the Spanish regime and was designed by Guillermo Brockman in 1896. The US Army Corps of Engineers completed the structure. This is the same lighthouse that I saw while we were in Allen, Samar and I am so lucky to come by knowing that it is located in a place which I wasn't expecting to go to and I was so delighted. Punta Capul will be my seventh old Spanish lighthouse that I have seen in the Philippines.

Punta Capul

And at the far end of the lighthouse is the view deck which unfolds the splendid view of San Bernardino Strait and Mt. Bulusan (boo-loo-sun). We were there on high noon, the scorching heat of the sun was burning and hurting my skin but the view numbed my senses as I saw the vastness of heaven and earth. The feeling was indescribable.

The view on the right side from where I am standing.

The view of the terrifying waves as it blows hard on the rocks at the end of the view deck.

Steep area, do not dive.

Capul is a small town in the heart of Northern Samar, its original name was Abak and the locals speaks Inabaknon. A unique dialect spoken only by the Capuleños, instead of Waray which is spoken by the natives of Samar. According to local folklore the name Capul was derived from Acapulco during the peak of Manila-Acapulco Galleon trade. The island serves as a shelter for ships looking forward to favorable winds and currents.

Chicken cooked in coconut milk, dinuguan, and sweet and sour fish.

Before I end I would like to thank the people of Capul Island for their warm reception, especially the driver of the motorcycle/tour guide, who cordially invited us to have lunch in his house. It's kind of extraordinary for us knowing that we are strangers, his invitation is just straight from the heart that it can't be denied. The barrio fiesta was going on that day and his wife served us delicious food in the manner that we are truly special to them. They lived a simple life, their house may only have few parts and features but their hearts are lavish.

HOW TO GET THERE?
1. There is a pump boat from Victoria, Samar just a few minutes away from Allen, going to San Antonio Island which takes 20 minutes and from there you can hire a boat going to Capul Island for a negotiated rent.
2. There is also a passenger boat in Allen Port which takes passengers to Capul Island which leaves in the afternoon and will go back to Allen Port the next day, so staying overnight is advised. There are homestays in the island, ask the locals and they will help you.
3. When in Capul Island there are "habal-habal" which takes tourists around the island.

REMINDERS:
1. Bring food and water.
2. Respect the locals and do not leave your garbage in the island.
3. Enjoy!

Thank you for reading.

Immersion in Northern Samar (Biri Island/Allen)

All the while I thought there is nothing to see in Samar, knowing that it is the highway of super typhoons I thought it is always a troubled world. But my impressions was turned over like a magic spell as if I am being drawn deeper in the heart of the province and I can't help but explore and immerse myself into it! It took weeks before I came up with a final itinerary because I had a hard time calling and sending text messages to contact persons that I've read on blogs and websites, since it's only a year after the devastation of typhoon Haiyan.  I made several calls but only one person took my call and gave hope to my intentions.

Terminal in Tacloban City

We booked a flight to Tacloban City and took a bus going to Allen, we know it's going to be a long travel so we prepared for it. It is a 5 hour travel by land, we left Tacloban at 8:30 am and arrived in Allen, Northern Samar at 2 in the afternoon. We stayed at Villa Veronica resort which will be our base camp for two nights. We had lunch in the house of a family friend, afterwards we prepared some things for our trip to Biri Island on the following day.

It was a cloudy day on our second day, I called our tour guide and advised him about our arrival at Lavezares port. Lavezares is a municipality in Northern Samar and is the gateway to Biri Island. While waiting for the tour guide, I took some time looking at those fresh caught fish in the market and they look so fresh! There were tuna, squid, shrimps and many more, I thought of buying and just grill it in the island but we have no more time to buy the things that we need for grilling, so as soon as the boat docked, off we went right away!

It would be a 45-minute pump boat ride, on the rough San Bernardino Strait, a waterway which separates Samar from the island of Luzon and  which is famed for being unpredictable, one moment the current is calm then suddenly it becomes wild and with all those water vortex along the way. There is this big statue of a lady on top of a ship which I got so curious about, well, according to our guide, there was a pirate ship which sank a long time ago and a lady appeared on top of the ship and saved the pirates...well that's interesting and makes sense.

Upon arrival at Biri Island, we rode a "habal-habal" (a motorcycle modified to accommodate passengers more than its capacity), which is the only transportation in town due to its narrow roads. We went straight to the tourism office in the town proper to register. Biri Island is located in the northernmost tip of Northern Samar, it became famous for the gigantic rock formations standing along the Pacific Ocean which guards the town from all possibilities of water surges and I must say that they're enormous! There is a long boardwalk from the street going to our first rock destination and along the way there are mangroves around, some are big and some are newly planted.

Boardwalk going to Bel-at Rock

First rock formation to see is the Bel-at Rock, I can't figure how these massive rock formations were formed, they were gigantic as if it was a battlefield of the children of Zeus in the primeval eras. They are standing fronting the Pacific Ocean and terminates big blows of waves of the ocean! We went on top of Bel-at and it was scary! I was being paranoid of falling because of the narrow passages we stepped on considering that it was so windy plus the roaring sound of the Pacific Ocean, can you imagine how scary but thrilling it was to be up there?

Standing next to Bel-at rock is the Caranas rock formation. We planned to go to Caranas but the water was still high so we just took a dip in the natural pool nearby.

Caranas Rock Formation

Natural pool

And on the other side of Bel-at rock is the Puhunan rock formation which has a resemblance to a sphinx posting as a gatekeeper of Biri Island. And that rock formation next to Puhunan is the Makadlao rock formation, can you see it?

Puhunan Rock Formation and  Makadlao Rock Formation

Before going to the other rock formations, we ate lunch at a nearby eatery along the way and ordered "halo-halo" (a native dessert which consist of different sweetened fruits with crushed ice and milk). The owner of the eatery was kind enough to let us eat our packed lunch in her store. A simple meal of grilled tuna and pork filled our tummies and regained our energy! Burp! Fantastic! By the way we bought the meal in Oceanview Restaurant in Allen, they take orders of packed food and pick them early in the morning.

Thank you to the store owner who makes delicious halo-halo.

Halo-halo

After some time spent in the store we headed to the next rock formation...the Magasang rock formation. There is a boardwalk from the main road going to Magasang, but it is not long enough to get us to the rock formation, at the end of it we walked across the water. We were very careful because the rocks in the water are shaking and sharp and it can hurt feet.

Bridge going to Magasang Rock Formation

This boardwalk was constructed to let the tourists cross even if the tide is high, the stairs was suppose to be near the beach but due to consecutive water surges that happened a year ago caused by strong typhoons the water went far and away from the beach. I think the Magasang rock is the biggest of them all, its base is almost equal to a mall, a big mall! We can get around the rock and climbed on top of it but it has a higher elevation than the Bel-at rock formation.

Magasang Rock Formation

This was at the other side of the Magasang rock formation, there were some indentation on the surface of the rock in the shape of feet of people, animal hooves, like what I've said, it looked like it  was a battlefield in the ancient world. My imaginations became so wild while roaming around these rock formations, really I began to think of so many things while staring at them.

Natural Stairs

There is also this natural stairs which made our ascent very easy, no sweat! Well I think this place was a mass of land thousands of years ago, which fell apart due to an earthquake or volcanic eruption, but I'm not sure that's only my observation.

I told you it's enormous, just look how small we are and this was only a portion of the rock formation.

Magsapad Rock Formation

Standing next to Magasang rock formation is the Magsapad rock formation which looks like a giant toad or head of a giant sea turtle? What can you see?

This is the view on the left side of the rock formation from where I am standing. With the aid of the rock stairs it was not at all difficult to climb on top of it as well as with going down.

And this is the view on the right side from where I am standing, overlooking the mainland of Biri and cerulean Pacific Ocean. Well, I asked our tour guide about the story of these rock formations but he gave no answers, there are six rock formations which stands at the gate of Biri Island they are the Caranas, Bel-at, Puhunan, Makadlao, Magsapad and Magasang and whatever way they were created, I do not know but one thing is for sure, they are truly immense!

After the rock formation trip we went to the town proper and went straight to the boat. By the way, day trip in Biri Island is possible, only you have to hire a private boat to pick you at Lavezares port and wait for you and take you back to Lavesarez. It was a fun filled trip, I swear, you should try it!

HOW TO GET THERE?
1. If you're coming from Manila, take a flight going to Tacloban City, take a bus or UV Express going to Allen. I suggest you take the ordinary bus because it goes directly to Allen unlike with the UV express that you have to get off in their terminals in Catbalogan and Calbayog and take another van, yes they're faster but you have to wait and buy ticket again for the next vehicle...it's kind of inconvenient. The ordinary bus takes longer by an hour but it is safer if you're not on a rush. I have nothing against the UV Express, but it is better to take the bus.

The terminal going to Allen is in Abucay, Tacloban City, just ask the taxi driver to take you to the bus terminal. You will see a number of bus liners and UV express in that place. The name of the bus is JM Bus Lines, the fare going to Allen is 240 pesos. The fare for van going to Calbayog is 100 pesos and from Calbayog take another van going to Catbalogan City for 100 pesos and from Catbalogan to Allen is 130 pesos. So it's your decision what transportation you'll take. There are also cars for hire for 3500/day excluding fuel.

You can also take a flight to Legaspi, Albay and take a public transportation to Matnog port in Sorsogon. Take the ferry going to Allen port.

There are also buses in Metro Manila which takes passengers to Samar.

The shortest way is through Catarman airport which has flights from Manila via Philippine Airlines only.

2.  When you arrived in Allen, Samar take a tricycle or jeepney (very seldom) going to Lavesarez port.

3. At Lavesarez port, there are pump boats which takes passengers to Biri Island for 50 pesos, but you have wait for the boat to be filled.

Reminders:
1. Be sure that you go to the tourism office to register, the tour guides knows about it and they will take you there.
2. You can bring food but there are small retail stores in the island where you can buy some food and drinks.
3. Please don't leave your trashes in the island, take them with you and dispose them properly.
4. There are a number of accommodations in Biri Island if you're planning to stay overnight, you better go to the tourism office and ask.
5. If you're going to make a day tour and stay at Allen or Victoria, Samar, there are several resorts in Barangay Buenos Aires along Maharlika Highway, just tell the bus driver what resort you're getting off. I recommend Villa Veronica Beach Resort, Wayang-wayang Beach Resort, Spice of Life Beach Resort. There are also restaurants in Allen that serves delicious food.

If you need a contact person in Biri Island just call or send a text message to Jun Giray at mobile #0928 830 9396. His father operates a pump boat if you want to hire it for 2,000 (negotiable) for a day tour at Biri Island.

That's it, thank you for reading and I hope you'll read my next blog more about Northern Samar.

Bahay Nakpil-Bautista

After the Maragondon heritage walk and learned some facts about Andres Bonifacio, I thought of his widow and what could have

 happened to her after the passing of her husband. My inquiry brought me to the venerable house in the heart of Quiapo, Manila, the Bahay Nakpil-Bautista (Nakpil-Bautista House). The house was built by Dr. Ariston Bautista and Petrona Nakpil in 1914 and was designed by the famous architect Arcadio Arellano.

The house is located at the core of the metropolitan along with the busy trading centers which has almost obliterated the historicalness of the structure. The Bahay Nakpil-Bautista has dwelled the widow of Andres Bonifacio, Gregoria de Jesus after marrying Julio Nakpil, who by then resides with the owners of the house Ariston Bautista and Petrona Nakpil, sister of Julio. Julio Nakpil was a member of the Katipunan, revolutionary group lead by Andres Bonifacio. He was also a composer and in fact he composed a hymn entitled "Marangal Na Dalit Ng Katagalugan" (Noble Hymn of the Tagalog Nation) which was intended to be the first National Anthem of the Philippines.

Upon entrance, the flags of the Philippine Revolution are displayed underneath the stairs which gives an impression of valiance, at the mezzanine (entresol), there are two doors leading to a big room where Julio and Gregoria stayed with their children. Gregoria's terno (a type of Philippine traditional dress for women) is displayed in their room together with some of Julio Nakpil's musical compositions.

The motif of the house is Viennese Secession which was inspired by the Viennese furniture set which was given to Dr. Ariston by the Prietos characterized with long slender column, vertical frames with an accent of tiny mother-of-pearl flowers engraved on its dark wood. Furniture designs during those times were elaborately carved with flowers which is the opposite of Vienna design, a style which was not popular in the Philippines then.

The reductivism was repeated all throughout the house which prevails on its ceilings, room dividers, ventanilla grills in the pattern of tulip. The calado on the top walls provides ventilation throughout the house.

As I went up the stairs, there is a receiving area, they call it "antesala", where guests are received on days when the residents holds special events. The second floor has been turned to museum where some artworks and keepsake of Philippine revolution particularly those belonging to Katipunan are displayed.

The living room has floors made from hardwood and has broad windows where air can pass to and fro providing enough ventilation around the house. A reproduction of Juan Luna's masterwork "The Parisian Life" in place of the original is displayed in this house. The owner of the house Dr. Ariston Bautista was one of the figures in the corner of the painting together with Dr. Jose P. Rizal and Juan Luna himself that seems like they're having a private meeting. The original painting is presently displayed in Luna Room of the GSIS Musuem. Another Juan Luna's greatest artwork is  the "Spoliarium" which can be viewed in the National Museum, Manila Philippines.

Also found in the living room is the "tumba tumba" (rocking chair) where Oryang (Gregoria de Jesus) used to sit and rest. It is also the favorite chair of Dr. Jose Rizal during those times.

These are some of Ka Oryang's mementos left in the house. Her precious coffee grinder, Ka Oryang was a coffee addict that is why her coffee grinder should be handy in the house, I wonder how many cups of coffee does she consumes in a day? Her bed and her favorite hair accessory, the "payneta" an ornamental hair comb made from tortoise shell. The "azotea" or the terrace which is just beside the bedroom overlooks the "estero" (drainage canal) which I believe was not as bad as it is at present.

Also found in the second floor is the "comedor"(kitchen) that is quite spacious for a big family. Old kitchen utensils are displayed in a corner, the kitchen floor and walls are tiled, the sink is big and made from ceramic.

The house also keeps the original ballot box used in the first presidential and vice presidential election in the Philippines held in Cavite where Emiliano Aguinaldo won as the President.

The Nakpil-Bautista house is a concrete testimonial that it was the home of the heroes of the revolution and until now even though it has undergone so many modifications we cannot deny the fact the we owe gratitude to the people with exceptional courage who fought for the freedom that we are enjoying at present.

Lastly, I would like to thank Ms Bobbi Santos-Viola, President of Bahay-Nakpil Foundation for accommodating us even the museum is closed, we went there on a Monday but still they were generous to let us in and for letting me get some informations on their website at http://bahaynakpil.org/ .

How to get there?
1. The house is located at 432A Bautista St. (formerly Barbosa St.), Quiapo, Manila.
2. The museum is open from 9 am to 5 pm on Tuesdays until Sunday.
3. Entrance fee is 80 pesos for adults, college and university students.
Senior citizens, grade school and high school students is 50 pesos. For group of 10 or more is 50 pesos each.
4. It is accessible by public transportation, just get off at Quezon Blvd. or Hidalgo St.
5. For inquiries and reservations send e mail to- info@bahaynakpil.org or you can call landline # 7319305.

And that is your ticket to Bahay Nakpil-Bautista! A replica of the cedula which was torn by the Katipuneros during the revolution. Go get your copy and keep it, it would be a nice souvenir.
Thank you for reading.